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    Italian Artisans Strive to Preserve Struggling Fashion Industry Amidst COVID-19

    Italy’s fashion industry is known for its creativity and draws on the talent of generations of skilled artisans, contributing $67 billion to the country’s economy. However, the COVID-19 pandemic has dealt a heavy blow to the industry, with the closure of shops and cancellations of fashion shows resulting in staggering losses of up to $20 billion.

    Italian Correspondent Seth Doane recently traveled across the country to investigate how artisans are coping with the challenges of the COVID-19 era, visiting the fabric factory in the eastern Veneto region and the rolling hills of Umbria.

    Preserving the Art of Embroidery

    In Milan, Raffaella Grasso inherited the embroidery business Pino Grasso Ricami from her father, whose past successes are posted on the walls. Her clients include fashion icons such as Dolce & Gabbana, Armani, and Bottega Veneta. She explained to Doane that their technique involves overlapping sequins by hand, which sets them apart from other embroiderers. This intricate craft can take years of apprenticeship to master, and some of Grasso’s embroiderers have been with the company for up to four decades.

    However, the pandemic has taken a significant toll on the business, with orders from fashion houses down 70 percent in the summer of 2020. The company has since picked up some work, but they are still down by 50 percent, and they worry about the impact of another wave of infections. Grasso emphasized that the potential closure of their business would mean losing a wealth of collective knowledge and experience, which would be lost forever.

    Impact on Luxury Cashmere and Fabric Producers

    In central Italy, Adria Castellani of Luxury Cashmere, which produces high-end sweaters, scarfs, and shirts for top fashion houses, including Ralph Lauren and Brunello Cucinelli, explained to Doane that their business is directly impacted by store closures in major fashion cities such as Los Angeles, New York, and Tokyo. They were able to fill orders placed before Italy’s nine-week nationwide lockdown, but their own retail sales were down by almost 50 percent.

    Similarly, Lorenzo Bonotto, who runs his family’s company, Bonotto Fabrics, which produces for Chanel, Alexander Wang, Tory Burch, Theory, and hundreds of other clients, noted that COVID-19 had initially hit their business hard. However, since they supply to companies in various countries, they’ve seen orders returning from places where lockdowns have loosened. They were able to compensate for the loss of orders from Europe through orders from Asia and vice versa.

    Drawing on Creativity to Survive

    Despite the challenges faced by the fashion industry in Italy, the artisans who have built their businesses based on their talents are drawing on their creativity to adapt and survive. Bonotto highlighted that creativity is central to imagining new fabrics and designs, and his company’s flexibility in working globally has allowed them to adapt to changes in demand. He emphasized that creativity is a “mental vaccine” that helps them stay resilient amidst the pandemic.

    According to recent reports on Google News, Italian artisans in the fashion industry are working hard to preserve their struggling business amidst the COVID-19 pandemic. Despite the industry’s $67 billion value, losses of up to $20 billion have been reported due to the cancellation of fashion shows and the closure of shops. From the rolling hills of Umbria to the fashion capital of Milan, correspondents have met with embroiderers and fabric factory workers who have been with their companies for decades. These artisans are using their creativity and collective knowledge to survive in the challenging COVID era, hoping to preserve their businesses and pass on their skills to future generations.

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