Simon Porte Jacquemus is currently the most popular face of French fashion. He is one of the icons of Gen Z and has achieved what many would envy. To bring fashion to his own devices. Yesterday he presented his new SS23 collection, at Le Bourget airport in Paris, thus closing the year with his show and making everyone talk about him again. Because in addition to being a talented designer, he is also a person with a huge influence on social media, which were his first audience, those who have supported and highlighted him, his own community.
“Le raffia” was presented under a rain of straw, as models walked around the circular runway, which was dressed in the warm colors of summer: pale yellow and raffia beige, making the setting reminiscent of part of the natural world. In general, Jacquemus has a personal weakness for raffia as a material and makes sure to bring it back again and again in his collections. His oversized hats, with huge brims and statement accessories, stole the show from the very first looks. He also owes it to his audience, who have identified and adored him for his bags. For this summer we saw his signature miniature handbags, but also new designs with raffia fringes giving movement and an air of femininity.
On the runway, we saw Jacquemus ‘ well-known cut-out designs, crop jackets, micro mini skirts, low-rise pants with metallic textures, transparencies and 70s retro prints, polka dots, and his favorite white, but also fuchsia, which gave way to warm tile, of the sunset. A fairly large collection and relatively rich in design, with the tailored jackets, voluminous skirts, and the shaggy coat, created in collaboration with the legendary Haute Couture atelier Lesage, being the new elements that stole the show.
The best looks from the runway:
Simon is the ultimate proof that uniqueness, self-expression, and being who you really want to be, without hiding your truth, are what today’s fashion demands. Fresh and liberating, it brings sexiness back into the summer vocabulary, thinking of the girls in Capri and Portofino, walking the streets in their vast hats and tiny clothes. What, however, makes his collections stand out, apart from the fact that he has created a style, which has been identified with his name, aesthetics, and the universe, is that he has never left the fun, creative part of fashion, like his vast daisies earrings, which within a few hours went viral.
A few hours before the big show, he trolled, writing on his personal Instagram account that this show will be his last… for this year. The comments were raves with users waiting for ‘Le raphia’, with even more anticipation. The image of our next vacation was already formed before our eyes: short shorts, a linen cropped jacket, a huge hat, and a pair of clogs or thong sandals, which will take us one step closer to the sea wave. Jacquemus did it again!
